Goodbye PimPom

During my first week of volunteering I quickly realized that I had arrived with a somewhat idealized worldview. I was aware of the poverty however, not to the extend that I experienced it. It is shocking to me to have people living the good life two blocks from those who heat their homes with burning scrap and are lucky to have one meal a day. The poverty and famine weren’t going to end or even get any better because other volunteers and myself helped out for 4 weeks. I needed to accept this fact and tweak my expectations…those I had created for myself and for those I would spend my days with, Estella and Moni. I had to think small, I may not be able to help every child at PimPom, but helping a few is certainly possible. Accepting that big change starts small is the key. This is precisely why helping out can be very hard. Confrontation with difficult situations made me feel vulnerable, scared, cry and breakdown. After spending weeks with the children, I had developed relationships with them and I was also more aware of the poverty, the famine, the drugs and the violence these children faced everyday. My role became clear as the weeks went by…make the children feel safe and loved. PimPom is not a school as we know it, it is a place for children to play, to socialise, eat a hot meal which for some is the only one they get but first and foremost it is a place where they can feel safe and loved. One thing that was not lacking between the four cement walls of PimPom was laughter, infectious laughter from the continuous use of cones as hats, of paint as food or making the blocs fall over and over again. Afterall, learning can only take place when you feel safe!

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Bring on the beaches in Brazil

Last Thursday I boarded a plane for Rio de Janeiro. It is only a couple hours away from Buenos Aires and the airfare is not that expensive. It felt great leaving 7 degrees and overcast weather for 30 degrees and sunshine!

There is no shortage of Rio de Janeiro attractions. The city is full of breathtaking views and cool places. Two of my favourite were the Christ Redeemer Statue at Corcovado one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, and the views from Sugarloaf, which you get to by cable car. I toured the city sights including a favela (shanty town in Brazil) where you see misery and poverty and the gap between rich and poor.

The image of Rio spread around the world is many times that of a crowded beach, and indeed it is a big part of the culture. The weekends especially, Ipanema Beach and Copacabana Beach were crowded with people. I had difficulty moving around and once i found a patch of sand I quickly claimed it as mine for the day. It´s a social meeting point where you go to relax, have fun and meet new friends. Coconut water, acai juice, churros, beach sheets; all were provided by various vendors. Needless to say, Ipanema beach was where I spent most of my time, people watching and soaking up the sun that I’ve been missing.

Ipanema is a neighbourhood beautifully wedged in between the lake and the Atlantic Ocean and just like in Copacabana you have big green hills surrounding it. I rented a room in Mauricio and Mateus’ apartment in Ipanema, 2 blocks from the lagoon and 7 to the beach. They were great hosts, showing me the sights, taking me out at night after making me over and giving me great insight on the political situation the country is in at the moment.

Ipanema beach is quite interestingly divided into informal sections. On Posto 7 (Posto is referring to the numbered lifeguard towers along the beach) you have the surfers and the favela, Posto 8 is families, between Posto 8 and 9 is the gay section, Posto 9 is for the young and hip, Posto 10 is for the rich… My hosts gracefully pointed out the post I should be at!! Shopping is another good pastime since along the main street you have a really good selection of shops for clothes, shoes, surfing and so on. Going down to Lagoa (The Lake) is another option. There you can run, bicycle or just stroll. It’s also great for people watching… one night families were flying giant flashing kites, while others fished with nets in the darks… I guess fish don’t see too well at night!!

Volunteering at PimPom will come to an end tomorrow as I will be flying to Santiago, Chile, Friday and back home on Tuesday.
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Tango

Tango is of huge cultural significance here and all tourists are required to try it atleast once. Like sushi is to Japan, samba is to Brazil, and beer is to Germany, tango defines Argentina.

My introduction to tango was at La Catedral. This milonga (place where tango is danced) gets points for sheer originality. Unlike many milongas it’s not located in a shabby old dance hall or a beautiful Art Deco building, but rather a factory which has been converted into a big tango salon with beat-up old furniture and strange artifacts. A big portrait of Carlos Gardel (the man behind tango) smiles down from the wall behind the stage. After taking part in a beginner lesson, the dance floor opens up to all levels and ages!

From there, I moved to Cafe Tortoni. Founded in 1858, Café Tortoni is the oldest coffee shop in the whole country. With a very rich history, it is visited at all times by intellectuals, politicians and artists. Every night they have tango shows in the lower level of the cafe…an intimate setting where the walls are drapped in red velvet and the waiters, all male, wear tuxedos.

Tango is everywhere here. Even if you don’t attend a show you will see it being performed in the streets, the music played on the radio and fancy dance shoes being sold in zapatarias!

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The many sights in BA

This week I focused on my Spanish, attending intensive classes 4 hours a day. During the afternoon I toured the cities different sites and barrios (neighbourhoods). Schools were closed for their “winter break”.

One if my favourite sights was the Recoleta Cemetary. The cemetery is home to hundreds of illustrious corpses, laid out in a compact yet very extensive maze of granite, marble and bronze mausoleums. Many Argentinian presidents are entombed here, but most of the cemetery’s visitors come to see the resting place of María Eva Duarte de Perón, aka Evita.

A more modern sight is this gigantic flower that has become one of the latest icons of Buenos Aires. Officially the flower goes by the name of Floralis Generica. It is 23 metres high and weighing in at 18 tonnes. When the petals are open they span 32 metres and when closed only 16 metres. The architect of this original work is Buenos Aires born Eduardo Catalano.
One of the fascinating features of this sculpture is that it acts like a real flower in that its gigantic petals are open during the day and then close for the night.

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Iguazu Falls

Over the weekend I went to Iguazu with a Amanda, a teacher from NYC who is also learning Spanish and touring this breathtaking part of the world. Iguazu is perhaps Argentina’s star natural attraction. These mighty falls are made up of some 275 individual waterfalls and cascades, the park in which they’re located has an amazingly well-maintained set of catwalks that allow you to get right up close and personal with the vast sprays of water. They are approximately four times the size of Niagara Falls and you can literally reach out and touch them. The power, size and sheer noise of the falls have to be experienced to be believed.

Iguazú Falls has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1984. The falls are located in the far north of Argentina, right on Argentina’s border with Brazil. The nearest town to the falls, Puerto Iguazú, is a short flight or a very long bus ride from Buenos Aires. I opted for the flight! It is a stunning place with a wide variety of species due to it being a subtropical rainforest. It was a great weekend awsy from the hustle and bustle of BA.

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A Weekend Away in Uruguay

This past weekend I took a trip to Argentina’s neibhouring country Uruguay. I opted to take the ferry that resembles a mini cruise ship. After an hour of cruising along you hop on an omonibus (upscale Voyageur bus) and two hours later you arrive in Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital. It is quieter, smaller and less frenetic than BA. The weather wasn’t great; 10 degrees Celsius and overcast which made my own walking tour of the city mas rapido! To be honest, Montevideo and I did not hit it off. I found it to be quite bleak and gloomy. It may also be that I had arrived at night with no reservstions and was turned away from 3 hotels before finding one that had a room which locked only by pushing and turning the doorknob. Anyhow, I hopped on another omnibus that brought me to Colonia. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site it is lined with cobled streets and typical colonial architecture. Colonia and I hit it off…surrounded on three sides by Rio de la Plata, waves can be heard and seen almost everywhere!

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PimPom Kindergarten

Three days already at PimPom kindergarten. I must say, I was in shock my first day there. Not only was getting there an experience in itself, seeing young kids playing with the ants crawling on the floor
between four cement walls and dressed in layers of dirty clothing took the cake! I was warmly welcomed by Estella and her helper Moni. They introduced me to the kids and gave me a quick tour. The toilet is behind a curtain and next to it is a bucket with a hose for washing hands. In the main area, there is a slide and mini merry-go-round, those you would find in someone’s backyard back in the 80’s. They also have a bin with old and needless to say, dirty toys. I wondered how I could hep out with resources being scarce, furniture lacking and limited language comprehension. I soon realized we all had one thing in common and that was a smile! All the kids including Estella and Moni smile all the time! I quickly found my place….dancing, playing, singing, simply having fun. A smile is understood universally and that’s all it takes.
Today I took a taxi to the school to bring all the supplies with me. The driver could not comprehend why I was going to this part of town. He insisted on coming to pick me up free of charge as he told me the neighbourhood is not safe. Since I had been told nothing is free, I thanked him and took public transit back. I don’t bring anything with me when I go and make sure to dirty my cheeks, hands and pants before I head home.
You could imagine their reaction when I arrived with a suitcase filled with fun stuff…overwhelmed with joy. I don’t know how many times I heard “muchas gracias”! By the end of the day, we had built blocs, painted with letters, read stories, played soccer, put puzzles together and they could all recognize Canada by the Maple leaf. They even had a great time hiding in the suitcase! The best part of my days are those when I have snotty hands wrapped around my neck…I just can’t seem to get enough of their hugs. And yes, my hand sanitizer goes everywhere with me ; )

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I have arrived !

Day one in BA has been fun! After a long flight and a good nights rest I went out this morning to see the city. I had no specific route, just one that would allow me to see a typical day in a portenos’ life, and that I did! With a population nearing 3 million, the sights, the sounds and the smells are infinite. As I walked the streets I found myself facing the Obelisco in La Plaza de la Republica followed by Congreso de la Nacion,Tribunales and Teatro Colon. In all the cities I’ve visited, this one is by far the busiest, noisiest and dirtiest, however it has its charm and I am looking forward to discovering it in more depth. Tomorrow, I am meeting Jimena, the coordinator from Voluntario Global. She will be taking me to the school where I will be volunteering!
Ciao for now : )

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Twenty years fr…

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did. Throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbour and catch the trade winds in your sails. EXPLORE, DREAM, DISCOVER”